Each Chef Should Study Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
A Shocking Honour
The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family totally shocked.
“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Character of Modesty
The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
The Star Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.
Outranking the Stars
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
A Ethos of Hospitality
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
The Story of Hard Work
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
A Achievement for the People
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.